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Photo courtesy of Pamela Hyde

Listening to Stone Creek Woman

by Pamela Hyde, Executive Director, Southwest Rivers

I made my first raft trip down the Colorado River through Grand Canyon in 1993.  It was one of the most magical experiences of my life, and launched me solidly into a career -no, a calling -as an environmental champion of the Colorado River.

Early one morning on that trip, as I sat on a rock watching the bats catch a last meal over the placid river before finding a roost for the day, a voice entered my mind.  "Help people see the beauty,"it said.  Who was speaking to me, I wondered.  Could the river and the canyon have such power that they actually placed this message in my head?

Several years later I discovered a book called An Unspoken Hunger by Terry Tempest Williams, and an essay in it called "Stone Creek Woman".  Terry tells of a river trip in Grand Canyon in which she visits the waterfall up in Stone Creek, and makes a discovery...

I sank into the pool and floated momentarily on my back.  The waterfall became my focus once again.  Suddenly, I began to see a face emerging from behind the veil of water.  Stone Creek Woman.  I stood.  I listened to her voice.

Of course.  Stone Creek Woman.  That was the voice that I had heard.  The timeless essence of the Grand Canyon that lives in the unexpected, dazzling beauty of water and canyon.  She speaks to those who open themselves to her.

Terry celebrates Stone Creek Woman, and bids us to heed her message...

Since that hot June day, I have made a commitment to visit Stone Creek Woman as often as I can.  I believe she monitors the floods and droughts of the Colorado Plateau, and I believe she can remind us that water in the West is never to be taken for granted.  When the water flows over the sandstone wall, through the moss and the ferns, she reveals herself.  When there is no water, she disappears.

For more than five million years, the Colorado River has been sculpting the Grand Canyon.  Stone Creek, as a small tributary to the Colorado, plays its own role in this geologic scheme.  The formation I know as Stone Creek Woman has witnessed these changes.  The Colorado River, once in the soul-service of cutting through rocks, is now truncated by ten major dams generating twelve million kilowatts of electricity each year.  Red water once blessed with sediments from Glen Canyon is now sterile and blue.  Cows drink it.   We drink it.  And crops must be watered.  By the time twenty million people in seven western states quench their individual thirsts and hose down two million acres of farmland for their food, the Colorado River barely trickles into the Gulf of California.

If at all.

Water in the American West is blood.  Rivers, streams, creeks become arteries, veins, capillaries.  Dam, dike, or drain any of them and somewhere, silence prevails.  No water: no fish.  No water: no plants.  No water: no life.  Nothing breathes.  The land-body becomes a corpse.  Stone Creek Woman crumbles and blows away.

I, too, have heard Stone Creek Woman's message.  Water is life.  The beauty that is hidden away deep in the Grand Canyon, from the tiniest plant to the grandest vista, can help us see that the Colorado River and every seep, spring, creek, stream and river that feeds it holds the key to life in this arid landscape. 

You are a steward of the river, Stone Creek Woman whispers to me, but you can be more than that.  You can be a window to the river's future.

I am humbled, Stone Creek Woman.

Copyright © 2002 by Pamela W. Hyde.

All excerpts are from "Stone Creek Woman,"in An Unspoken Hunger, Terry Tempest Williams.  Pantheon Books, New York.  1994.

 

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